We woke up before the alarm clock rang at 5am and it was raining super heavy, so we waited for a while. It stopped raining, we had breakfast, rode the bikes and hit the road. It was beautiful.

All the wild that was missing yesterday, we found it today. There were more than one thousand colours, hundreds of details in the green of the plants and as many as those in the brown of the grounds. The slopes were wild too. Since the beginning, there were really steep slopes in both senses but, unfortunately for us, especially the uphill ones. There were birds as if they were giving birds food for free and we could even see two monkeys!

Later, it stormed on us. After that the sun which came before the next one showed up… that sun that itches and weights… and the hills became very serius.
Providentially, a mini refugee-temple appeared. In it there was a Buddha with a trident! So, reunited the water oracle, we deliberated and the decision was unanimous:


Going on a bicycle through those slopes should enter in an Olympic category for Brazil… we had done 37km in four hours and a bit and we couldn’t more.

We smelt. We stinked so much that we were shy of getting in the minivan. So bad that, since many kilometres ago, when we had stopped to eat a mango, a bunch of flies was chasing us and, so numerous it was, that we couldn´t see well to remove the skin from the mango. Not even several kilometers downward slopes at high speed were able to separate them from us, especially from Berta. Her theory is that they hide inside the helmet in the downhill, evil them. It was as disgusting as amazing. We stank, but we were lucky and in the minivan there were a lot of wet hens, so our smell couldn’t be noticed.

We are in Sen Monorom. We are delighted for having done the last 25km until here by minivan; not only for enjoying every upslope seated in it, but also because the second storm hasn’t fallen on us.

Happy and relieved, we left the minivan to look for a place to sleep. We have also taken something from this last brief way today: on our stink now you can also distinguish a wet hen retro-smell…

Date: April 11 Skills: ON WHEELS, the route


  1. kim
    Tuesday April 22nd, 2014 at 11:49 AM · Reply

    Your story is still wonderful! More later after I read more. I leave to return to the US in 1 week. Happily the internet makes everyone seem closer. I can see your kms and your sweat, but only because I know the view. I was on the inside of the giant air-conditioned bus, not the bicycle. Wherever you are in your journey, you are among the most exquisite and interesting wet hens I have ever met. And fortunately, I think you net the shower and soap before I met you. Be well and be grateful

    • artwatereness
      Thursday April 24th, 2014 at 07:50 AM · Reply

      big fans of you! sooo big Kim, soooo fans… even grupies we would say! :)

  2. Thursday April 17th, 2014 at 09:03 PM · Reply


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